Twisted Axles
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16  Technical / Mechanical / Re: driveshaft angles on: May 02, 2011, 03:37:53 PM
you can have a double CV shaft made by a number of companies (JE Reel, Tom Woods, High Angle Driveline, Driveshaftsuperstore) but they are expensive.  I paid $400 just to have a regular single CV shaft built for the rear of mine.  Probably be cheaper to look around for a centered axle.  If you get lucky and find what you need they are only about $75 at pick and pull.  Worst case, you should be able to find one on craigslist or ebay for less than $200.
17  General Category / Club Announcements / May club meeting on: May 02, 2011, 03:31:21 PM
The next club meeting is on Wednesday, May 2nd.  Its at 6:30 at Frank's Plank Road Cafe.  Everyone is welcome to attend, not just club members.

Frank's Plank Road Cafe
(315) 699-9119
8350 Brewerton Rd
Cicero, NY 13039

18  General Category / Club Announcements / April Club Meeting on: April 04, 2011, 05:28:38 PM
The next club meeting is on Wednesday, April 6th.  Its at 6:30 at Frank's Plank Road Cafe.  Everyone is welcome to attend, not just club members.

Frank's Plank Road Cafe
(315) 699-9119
8350 Brewerton Rd
Cicero, NY 13039

19  General Category / Club Announcements / Rausch Creek Ride April 9, 2011 on: March 10, 2011, 04:19:53 PM
As we discussed in the last club meeting, I'd like to plan for a Rausch Creek Ride the weekend of April 9th.  Please post if you're interested.  Also, let me know what days you'd like to wheel.  I'd consider taking friday off if anyone is interested in wheeling Friday.

This ride is open to anyone, including non-club members.   You can send an email to TwistedAxles@twcny.rr.com for contact info.

Mark
20  General Category / Club Announcements / March 2011 Meeting on: February 27, 2011, 05:20:35 PM
This is a reminder of the club meeting on Wednesday, March 2nd.  Its at 6:30 at Frank's Plank Road Cafe.  Everyone is welcome to attend, not just club members.

Frank's Plank Road Cafe
(315) 699-9119
8350 Brewerton Rd
Cicero, NY 13039


21  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Disimular metals welding rod on: February 27, 2011, 05:13:28 PM
The more i thought about it, that axle outters must be forged.  There's no way a cast piece could support all the weight of the wheel bearing - it would be too brittle.  I just used a 7014 stick to weld it up.  I was going to use the nickel rods to weld the center section to the tubes, but Tim talked me out of that too.  I preheated and used regular MIG wire.  Then I wrapped it in a blanket and let it cool slow.  Nothing cracked, the welds look good. 
22  Technical / Electrical / Re: alternator rebuild on: October 05, 2010, 07:18:01 AM
I believe its the number of windings on the field coil (I think thats the right name for the outer windings, not the windings on the rotor that spins off the drive belt).  You can get high output coils for some Delco CS alternators, but not sure about other makes and models.  There's nothing you can modify yourself at home that I'm aware of
23  Technical / Electrical / Re: junkyard welder / dual alternator on: September 21, 2010, 09:33:04 AM
At peak demand, a winch can draw 500-600 amps. 

500-600 amps was a bit high.  I just checked the specs on mine, which is a Warn 9.5 XP.  It's 480 amps at the max line pull.  Warn recomments a minimum of a 650 CCA battery.
24  Technical / Electrical / Re: junkyard welder / dual alternator on: September 21, 2010, 07:30:47 AM
For starters, you absolutely need a deep cycle battery.  Winching will kill a regular battery pretty damn quick.  You can go with an optima, or just buy a cheapo marine battery at Walmart like i did.  Unless you plan on a lot of roll overs, I don't really think the optima offers much more than the additional safety of being a sealed battery.  If you are worried that your battery wont keep pace with the winch, pat is correct about the dual battery setup (both deep cycle).  At peak demand, a winch can draw 500-600 amps.  You are banking on the reserve in the battery top get you through short bursts of winching, not the alternator output.  you would probably need about 4 high capacity alternators to provide enough juice to meet the peak demand of the winch.
25  Technical / Suspension / Re: Scrappy build on: June 25, 2010, 05:16:10 AM
any new pics?
26  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Engine Swap on: June 25, 2010, 02:59:58 AM
clean the hole, use a jbweld or devcon that is for the application, fill the hole in and re-drill and tap.  Your more likely to mess up the block trying to tig or braze the aluminum.  If its just one small oil pan bolt the epoxy stuff should hold well to do its job.

I used the JB weld and then installed the bolt like a stud.  problem solved.  The new timing chain is on. Now I'm just waiting for some o-rings and gaskets from the dealer and I can finish putting it all together
27  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Engine Swap on: June 15, 2010, 02:55:23 AM
I was trying to EZout a broken bolt that held the oil pan last nite and I totaly f-d that job up. I got all off center and couldn't get the bolt out. I ended up with an offcententered oversized hole, and there was still some of the bolt that remained, so I went in with a chainsaw file and removed what was left.  There is no way a heilicoil will work now.  So I suppose the right way to fix it is to TIG the hole back up and re-drill and tap.  But that seems like a lot of work since I can't do that at my house.  I could also fill the hole with epoxy, drill a new, straight hole and through bolt it with a nut.  My fear with that is I won't be able to access the nut with a wrench once its all put together and sitting in the car.  So my question is, has anyone used any of those aluminum brazing rods?  It looks like there are two major brands: HTS-2000 and Alumaloy.  According to all the info-mmercial like videos on their websites I should be able to fill the hole in with this stuff and then drill and re-tap.  Does anyone know if these brazing rods work?  It only needs to hold threads for a 6mm bolt that holds the oil pan up.
28  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Engine Swap on: June 10, 2010, 12:49:21 PM
I guess the tensioners are actually what fail, so there would be some indication of wear from running a loose chain.  But I do agree that its an easy job right now so I think I'll do it.  Once I install the engine I'm not sure if I'll have room to drop the oil pan and remove the timing chain cover.  If this thing starts making noise down the road I'll be kicking myself for not doing the job now.  So I ordered the timing / water pump kit.  $140, including shipping.  New gears, chains, and tensioners. All need to buy are the gaskets and a new crank pulley seal.
29  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Engine Swap on: June 08, 2010, 03:29:48 AM
I have a problem selling parts because you never know when you might need it someday.
I'm usually the same way, but there are some parts that I'm pretty sure I wont need.  Like the steering rack. That and I'm out of room in my shed.  Parts have started to spill over to the basement.

So I've made some more progress. I got this mess of wires:



Boiled down to this:


I also opened up the engine to see what things looked like.



Surprisingly, the timing chain looks good.  These engines are supposed to be notorious for timing chain failures right around the mileage of this engine, but there are no signs of wear on the sprockets or the chain guides.  I can get a timing chain kit for $140 that even comes with a new water pump, so I'm not sure if I should do the job while its all open, or just save my money.
30  Technical / Mechanical / Re: Engine Swap on: May 25, 2010, 05:54:02 AM
I have the bellhousing, but it wont do me any good.  I measured the bellhousings and the 2.0L one is about 1.5" longer than than the 1.6L.  In addition, the 2.0L engine is also 1.5-2" longer.  I wont have room to run the longer bellhousing and still fit the extra length of the engine.  This may be the only time that I can't use an extra inch and half!  So it looks like I'll be running the 1.6L flywheel and clutch.

I dropped off the car at the recycler yesterday.  There is a DMV form to fill out if you dont have the title.  I got $140 for what was left of the car.  With the tranny also sold I already got back $200 of the $500.  And I still have a lot of other parts to sell.
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