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 71 
 on: July 13, 2010, 09:11:46 PM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by dusty178
having issues with the vintage wiring on my 79' cherokee. seems like the lights are searching for a ground , if turn on the 4-ways it makes the seat belt light in dash blink and the back lighting for my aftermarket temp gauge blink but no outside lights blink. i have taken the bulkhead connector ( main harness) from firewall and seen like a brown goo that is in the connector. havant had time to properly clean connector  yet. had the same proplem with a friends cj. any other ideas as to what might be making it do that Huh should it just make all new ground to block and to frame and body?

 72 
 on: June 25, 2010, 05:16:10 AM 
Started by PJ1 - Last post by dirtnerd
any new pics?

 73 
 on: June 25, 2010, 02:59:58 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
clean the hole, use a jbweld or devcon that is for the application, fill the hole in and re-drill and tap.  Your more likely to mess up the block trying to tig or braze the aluminum.  If its just one small oil pan bolt the epoxy stuff should hold well to do its job.

I used the JB weld and then installed the bolt like a stud.  problem solved.  The new timing chain is on. Now I'm just waiting for some o-rings and gaskets from the dealer and I can finish putting it all together

 74 
 on: June 23, 2010, 07:04:04 PM 
Started by PJ1 - Last post by PJ1
I'm kind of at a stall right now on everything with the broken foot thing going on. I have designed the front 4 link setup and have made most of the parts for the mounts but its not so easy to weld with the open toe boot thing I got on. I also got all the links cut to length and the frame notch located for the lower front links. I have about 5/8" clearance between the front driveshaft and the LCA mount its tight but it should work. I'll post these pics once i get them off my phone and resize them.

 75 
 on: June 20, 2010, 08:33:01 PM 
Started by dgray69 - Last post by dgray69
Northern New York's
TUFF TRUCK CHALLENGE 2010
Season #2

July 10 and 31, August 21, and September 18
old AIS Gate 1 on the Artz Rd. in New Bremen, NY

hosted by TeamXtreme Off Road

375' Old School Mud Bog!
Stock(33" and under), Modified(34"-37"),
Super Modified(38" and up) and Open Classes!
4wd only, street legal non cut tires
Stock, and Modified must run pump fuel only
true, old school mud pit, no drag race, only lots of DEEP MUD!


300' Sand Drag Racing
side by side elimination racing
Stock 4, 6, and 8, Modified and Open Classes!
street legal non cut tires
Stock Class must run pump fuel only
seat belts required
doors and roll cage for soft top vehicles

for complete rules, e-mail nnyttc@yahoo.com

Registration 9-11:30am
Racing Starts at Noon Sharp!

There will be a late registration up till 1/2 hour before each event
sand drags will start the day at noon!
followed by the tuff truck obstacle course
and then the mud bog!

Spectators
$8 for Adults
$2 Kids6-14
5 and under FREE!

Check our message board for more updates

http://www.teamxtrm.hyperboards.com/

everyone with stock and up is welcome to compete in multiple events!

(feel free to show up in a car and watch,
there's plenty of room to park at the track, bring the whole family)
 

 76 
 on: June 16, 2010, 10:17:04 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by tacowillys
clean the hole, use a jbweld or devcon that is for the application, fill the hole in and re-drill and tap.  Your more likely to mess up the block trying to tig or braze the aluminum.  If its just one small oil pan bolt the epoxy stuff should hold well to do its job.

 77 
 on: June 15, 2010, 04:51:58 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by PJ1
They work like a bastard just keep your temps under 900deg or its all over.

 78 
 on: June 15, 2010, 02:55:23 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
I was trying to EZout a broken bolt that held the oil pan last nite and I totaly f-d that job up. I got all off center and couldn't get the bolt out. I ended up with an offcententered oversized hole, and there was still some of the bolt that remained, so I went in with a chainsaw file and removed what was left.  There is no way a heilicoil will work now.  So I suppose the right way to fix it is to TIG the hole back up and re-drill and tap.  But that seems like a lot of work since I can't do that at my house.  I could also fill the hole with epoxy, drill a new, straight hole and through bolt it with a nut.  My fear with that is I won't be able to access the nut with a wrench once its all put together and sitting in the car.  So my question is, has anyone used any of those aluminum brazing rods?  It looks like there are two major brands: HTS-2000 and Alumaloy.  According to all the info-mmercial like videos on their websites I should be able to fill the hole in with this stuff and then drill and re-tap.  Does anyone know if these brazing rods work?  It only needs to hold threads for a 6mm bolt that holds the oil pan up.

 79 
 on: June 10, 2010, 12:49:21 PM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
I guess the tensioners are actually what fail, so there would be some indication of wear from running a loose chain.  But I do agree that its an easy job right now so I think I'll do it.  Once I install the engine I'm not sure if I'll have room to drop the oil pan and remove the timing chain cover.  If this thing starts making noise down the road I'll be kicking myself for not doing the job now.  So I ordered the timing / water pump kit.  $140, including shipping.  New gears, chains, and tensioners. All need to buy are the gaskets and a new crank pulley seal.

 80 
 on: June 08, 2010, 04:53:55 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by PJ1
I would say the pins in the chain are the failure point and you have no idea what they look like unless you unload the chain. Your never going to get any closer to it and knowing that they fail would be another reason to just change it and save yourself the headache down the road.

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