Twisted Axles
July 30, 2015, 04:08:56 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: welcome spring bring on the mud!
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
 91 
 on: June 15, 2010, 02:55:23 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
I was trying to EZout a broken bolt that held the oil pan last nite and I totaly f-d that job up. I got all off center and couldn't get the bolt out. I ended up with an offcententered oversized hole, and there was still some of the bolt that remained, so I went in with a chainsaw file and removed what was left.  There is no way a heilicoil will work now.  So I suppose the right way to fix it is to TIG the hole back up and re-drill and tap.  But that seems like a lot of work since I can't do that at my house.  I could also fill the hole with epoxy, drill a new, straight hole and through bolt it with a nut.  My fear with that is I won't be able to access the nut with a wrench once its all put together and sitting in the car.  So my question is, has anyone used any of those aluminum brazing rods?  It looks like there are two major brands: HTS-2000 and Alumaloy.  According to all the info-mmercial like videos on their websites I should be able to fill the hole in with this stuff and then drill and re-tap.  Does anyone know if these brazing rods work?  It only needs to hold threads for a 6mm bolt that holds the oil pan up.

 92 
 on: June 10, 2010, 12:49:21 PM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
I guess the tensioners are actually what fail, so there would be some indication of wear from running a loose chain.  But I do agree that its an easy job right now so I think I'll do it.  Once I install the engine I'm not sure if I'll have room to drop the oil pan and remove the timing chain cover.  If this thing starts making noise down the road I'll be kicking myself for not doing the job now.  So I ordered the timing / water pump kit.  $140, including shipping.  New gears, chains, and tensioners. All need to buy are the gaskets and a new crank pulley seal.

 93 
 on: June 08, 2010, 04:53:55 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by PJ1
I would say the pins in the chain are the failure point and you have no idea what they look like unless you unload the chain. Your never going to get any closer to it and knowing that they fail would be another reason to just change it and save yourself the headache down the road.

 94 
 on: June 08, 2010, 03:29:48 AM 
Started by dirtnerd - Last post by dirtnerd
I have a problem selling parts because you never know when you might need it someday.
I'm usually the same way, but there are some parts that I'm pretty sure I wont need.  Like the steering rack. That and I'm out of room in my shed.  Parts have started to spill over to the basement.

So I've made some more progress. I got this mess of wires:



Boiled down to this:


I also opened up the engine to see what things looked like.



Surprisingly, the timing chain looks good.  These engines are supposed to be notorious for timing chain failures right around the mileage of this engine, but there are no signs of wear on the sprockets or the chain guides.  I can get a timing chain kit for $140 that even comes with a new water pump, so I'm not sure if I should do the job while its all open, or just save my money.

 95 
 on: June 07, 2010, 09:23:30 PM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by dusty178
wow man broken foot that sux. um i just got the actuator working on the quadratrac case so i have true 4x4. it seems to work fine so far. have to see how bad it is offroad( with no low range) . still would like to change it over. i can have the tranny out in less than a day. im working outside on plywood but it works. sould i just get a rebuild kit for the tranyy anyway? i dnt want to make it a hardcore wheeler just make it do what i want when i want. im not a crazy wheeler just like to go out. what do you think man???

 96 
 on: June 07, 2010, 06:23:12 AM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by PJ1
I could give you a hand doing it. I broke my foot so it would be more of a your the hands I'm watching over you thing. A HT1000 is a little more complex compared to a TH400 and alot bigger but the idea is no different its just an extra planetary. The TH400 new or old will interchange the difference is in the servo's and accumulator spring rates\ design which will make them respond differently (shift points\strength). I will be good to go on 7/16 if your not totally confident you can do it.

 97 
 on: June 06, 2010, 06:55:24 PM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by dusty178
would love to make it a twin stick ... can you do transmissions then??? i have had them apart but dont have the shop space.i have some  know how. had allison 1000 auto trans apart in college but remember some thats in a medium duty staight trk  . its been 2yrs sence i had one apart.... would you be willing to help tear down and help me? maybe take the 2 th400 i have and make one that will work. the 87' trans was rebuilt 4 yrs ago and wasant driven on road was a dump trk and plow vehicle, i have taken the pan off and it was clean. no chunks or burnt fluild . do you think that the newr 400 guts  would work in the older 400 case?? i will show my ignerance and stop to a tranny shop and ask some questions.. let me know man thanx

 98 
 on: June 06, 2010, 06:45:48 AM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by PJ1
I'll take a pic of mine and post it up but remember its a 32 spline output shaft that goes straight thru to the 205. My adapter housing is bolted to the 205 but you should still be able to see what I'm talking about. You may have to cut the shaft down to fit so see how long those splines are or you could just tear down the TH400 and put the 32 spline tail shaft in it's not that hard of a job, you would gain alot of strength, you already have the parts you need to do the job and you could freshen up the trans while your at it. Good luck with the vacuum setup I would scrap that idea and twin stick the 205.   

 99 
 on: June 05, 2010, 11:58:59 AM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by dusty178
so a manual 205 would or could work on this set up.... hummm. a friend has a 205 from a manual maybe i can finger f it and see if it would work . now i was noticing that the output comes out from the trans is a good 6in long with the the adapter plate still on trans. wonder if that shaft would be too long to spline into the 205. their is also a support bearing in the adapter plate on the ouput. would it still work if i changed adapter plate and took bearing out? or would it be a time bomb if the case were to work with out changing the output shaft. im learning alot of things by just seeing if they work together but its nice to ask someone . so i have just took the adapter plate off trans and resealred it. put t-case in and did trans service. im trying to get the stock vacume set up working. i made sure the actuatior workd free on the case , have to get vacum to it and see what it does..    any more info would be nice . just want 2wd and low range is that to much to ask??? haha

 100 
 on: June 03, 2010, 04:04:44 PM 
Started by dusty178 - Last post by PJ1
I was talking with a few people and found out that yes GM made a TH400 with a round bell housing for AMC motors thats my bad. The input your looking for, the 10 spline input shaft for the NP205, can be found in a manual trans application. Most likely it will be a spud shaft setup to go from the trans thru your adapter housing and to the transfercase. Look for any manual trans 3\4 or 1 ton 4X4 chevy, ford or dodge truck and you should have the shaft your looking for. I thru out the small 10 spline input crap otherwise I could give you one. The bolt pattern I was talking about is on the transfer your 4 bolt pattern is the adapter housing to the tail of the TH400. Sorry for the BS on the TH400 but I have only seen 32 spline outputs on TH400's a 10 spline is a new one for me.   

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.13 | SMF © 2006-2011, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!